How to see West Greenland

  1. Fly to Kangerlussuaq to see the edge of the ice cap. But don't take a bus tour. I went there with Albatros Artic Circle and it was chaos. We left about 45 minutes late, they forgot a key that they needed to get through a gate so we had to wait again for someone to bring it out, someone slipped on the ice and hurt his head but on the way back there was no communication between the passenger compartment of the vehicle and the driver so when he later needed to stop there was no way to alert them (even though they had given us a radio for this purpose they hadn't turned theirs on). So take a tent and spend two to three days hiking up there. You should see musk oxen.
  2. You can do the Arctic Circle Trail to Sisimiut if you want. But it's a bit of a slog and the scenery isn't that special. If you don't do it you can fly to Sisimiut.
  3. From Sisimiut climb Nasaasaaq for fantastic views. 
  4. Take the ferry to Aasiaat (it only goes once a week, so get your timings right) and change to Qeqertarsuaq on Disko Island.
  5. Go hiking again on Disko Island. Make sure you see the waterfalls in Brededal. Look out for humpback and fin whales when you are by the coast.
  6. Take another ferry to Ilulissat to see the Ice Fjord. You only need a day but it's very impressive.
  7. Fly home from Ilulissat.
  8. Don't go on an organised tour. It will be more expensive and you will see less.
Posted on Wednesday, November 21, 2018 at 11:00 by Registered CommenterRobert Ulph | CommentsPost a Comment

Palm Oil

While palm oil is in the news, take a look at this picture which I took in Cameroon: Looks like pretty impressive rain forest, yes? Well actually on the left it is, it's the Korup National Park. But on the right there's the start of a huge palm oil plantation. You can see it in this image from Google Earth which shows the bridge the photo was taken from: There were forest elephants, monkeys and all sorts of birds in the rain forest. In the palm oil plantation I think you'd struggle to find any animals at all, except perhaps for insects. Very sad, but I don't know what the solution is. At least the national park is protected.
Posted on Tuesday, November 13, 2018 at 13:37 by Registered CommenterRobert Ulph | CommentsPost a Comment

Climbing Kirkjufell

Kirkjufell is a very iconic mountain on the Snæfellsnes peninsula of Iceland. You've probably seen photos of it with a waterfall in front - it is very striking. There are also dozens of people taking photos of it at any given time, and even a car park simply for this view. Here are my photos, including one of the classic view: Iceland 2018

I got interested in the idea of climbing it. It's only 463m high, but really narrow with lots of rock steps. But there are ropes in place to help you over these. I was advised before I went not to climb it, however, as it is known to be dangerous, and there was a fatality last year.

When I got there I found an information panel which said that the summit was accessible to experienced mountain walkers. I looked at the route through binoculars and thought that it really didn't look that bad. So I decided to go for it, and if it got too exposed, to turn around. 

After a bit of scrambling I was soon at the top, on a wonderful airy ridge enjoying amazing views. It was really great fun and I felt that it would be a great shame if people were discouraged too much from doing the climb. I hadn't felt in any danger at any time and felt that the information panel had it about right. I got back down without any problems and carried on my journey around Snæfellsnes.

A couple of weeks later I learnt that another had person died in a fall on the mountain. And a few weeks later a French woman fell and had to be taken to hospital. I'm aghast.

Posted on Monday, November 5, 2018 at 11:53 by Registered CommenterRobert Ulph | CommentsPost a Comment

Mato Grosso

Mato Grosso is a large state in Brazil, bordering Bolivia to the west. It was really easy to organise our trip - we just flew into Cuiaba, the state capital, hired a car and drove around, staying in hotels that we had booked online. Language is a bit difficult as most people only speak Portuguese, but we found that Spanish was useful at times.

We spent time at (a) the Chapada dos Guimaraes, an area of cerrado with much grassland, and impressive sandstone cliffs, (b) Jardim da Amazonia, an area of Amazon rain forest (although surrounded by large farms) and (c) the Pantanal, seasonally flooded wetlands with lots of wildlife. 

The highlight was definitely seeing jaguars in the Pantanal. If that was all you wanted to do you could easily do it in a week. You simply have to drive to the settlement of Porto Jefre from where they organise regular boat trips to look for them. You should see giant otters as well, and of course there are lots of birds.


Posted on Wednesday, October 31, 2018 at 13:50 by Registered CommenterRobert Ulph | CommentsPost a Comment

Thoughts on Panama

Quite a few people have asked me about Panama. I went there primarily for a birdwatching trip to Cerro Pirre in the Darien Gap. This was a lot of fun, camping up on the mountain, no other tourists, lots of birds which are hard to see elsewhere. Mammals would be great to see too, but inevitably we didn't see many. Most are nocturnal and it's not much fun going out hiking at night in the rainforest. But there are certainly a lot of mammals there, including the tapir which made such a mess in the stream above our water supply that it even prompted my guide, Euclides, who had assured me that he always drank the water untreated, to ask me for a chlorine pill to purify it.

Some people have this idea of going for a big adventure in the Darien, based on the past enthusiasm for crossing the Darien Gap into Colombia (not allowed these days). Euclides told me of a group who had done a 14 day hike in the area recently, but to me it sounded miserable - the path is very hard work, and if you're not looking for wildlife it's going to be plain boring really - the views are nothing special.

Other than that, the Canal has a visitors' centre which is worth an hour or two, and Panama City is impressively modern, and certainly worth a bit of time. The Pearl Islands might be good to explore, although I went to Contadora Island there and didn't find it that special - the water was a bit cold and not as blue as one would hope. Also you can go to the highlands in the west of the country, but I think they would be similar to the highlands of Costa Rica, which are more expansive.

So, sure, Panama is great. But unless you are an ardent birdwatcher, or canal enthusiast, you might find that Costa Rica is better geared to meet your needs.


Posted on Wednesday, September 5, 2018 at 17:32 by Registered CommenterRobert Ulph | CommentsPost a Comment
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